There are three elements to growing productive tomato
plants: a young plant; good soil; and warm soil. The first is key; if you buy a plant that is
blooming in its pot, it won’t grow for you, even if it is in good, warm soil. Annuals like tomatoes stop growing and start
blooming and making seed when their roots wrap around inside the pot and touch
each other. A root-bound plant that is
blooming probably won’t grow much even if you bury the stem in soil; you’ll end
up with a few fruit on a stunted plant.
It’s nearly impossible to find a gallon plant in the stores
that is not already blooming, and if you find one, a 4 inch plant will usually
at least catch up with it. Even 6-pack
plants will beat gallon plants, which are grown for people who don’t know any
better than to buy a big plant. If you
want to grow a big tomato plant, buy a small one.
Good nutrition is important; if your flowering weeds are not
bountifully large, you should put down about 6 inches of compost on top of the
soil and plant into it. Do not mix it
into the soil; worms will do it for you.
It will suppress weeds, and nutrients from the compost leach downward to
the roots as they become soluble and available to the plant. 6 inches of good compost at least 3 feet wide
will grow a big tomato plant even on bare rock or concrete.
Warming the soil can be important if the summer is cool, and
always helps the plant grow early in the season. Covering the soil with mid-sized, relative
flat river rock, of a size to easily move with one hand, will prevent
evaporation from the compost, keeping it moist and preventing cooling; prevent
weeds everywhere the soil is covered; and soak up and conduct heat during the
day and release heat at night when it helps root growth. I used to use 3 larger rocks around each
plant, but now I’ve moved to a circle of the smaller rock at least 2 feet wide,
after great results with watermelon last year.
Covering a whole bed with such rock will prevent cats from digging as
well.
The rules for tomatoes also apply to peppers, particularly
not using plants that are already blooming in the pots. These are harder to find with peppers; this
week, I was having a hard time finding 4 inch plants that weren’t at least
budding, but the large 6-packs were good.
When it comes to the squash and melon family, as well as
corn and beans, seed is the only way to go.
They really don’t like their roots messed with or any degree of
root-binding. If the soil is warm, they
pop right up; if it is not, a started plant will just suffer in the cold. If the bugs eat your plants, or the seed
doesn’t sprout, the soil was too cold; replant.
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